Gigha write-up in the FT

[Tom B]

"Notes from an even smaller island
By Catherine Czerkawska

Published: July 12 2008 01:27 | Last updated: July 12 2008 01:27

One of the many possible meanings of the name of the little Hebridean island of Gigha is said to be God’s Island. I’ve been visiting Gigha (pronounced gee-a with a hard “G”) for so many years that disembarking from the Caledonian MacBrayne car ferry, which plies between Tayinloan on the Kintyre mainland and Ardminish Bay on Gigha, feels, if not divine, then like coming home.

But first, you have to find the place. Driving north and then west from Glasgow, you must first skirt a succession of sea lochs. Turn sharp right at the busy port of Tarbet, with its colour-washed cottages, and you’re heading south again, following the long and sparsely populated line of the Kintyre peninsula, of which Paul McCartney once sang. And then, quite suddenly, you’ll see it on the horizon, its long, low hills a misty enticement, like Tír na nÓg, the paradise isle of Celtic mythology.

Historically, Gigha’s strategic position as a place of sheltered harbours between the mainland and more remote islands has meant that for many hundreds of years those hungry for land (among them Vikings and pirates, as well as clan chieftains) have contested its ownership, much to the misery of successive populations. Latterly, a string of private owners has tried to make it pay but islands are uncommon businesses. They only really work when the profits can be ploughed back into the infrastructure.

Where to stay: take the high road or the zig-zag ferry
Accommodation on Gigha ranges from the pleasant new bed & breakfast at Tighnavinish to the luxurious rooms of Achamore House (starting at £55 per person, per night for an en suite double room with breakfast, based on double occupancy). The Gigha Hotel, which has a restaurant and offers bar meals, provides extremely comfortable mid-priced accommodation. There are also a number of excellent self-catering cottages but these are popular and should be booked early. The food at the new Boathouse restaurant is delicious and imaginative, so you should make a reservation if you want an evening meal during the busy summer season.

Getting to Gigha involves a long drive from Glasgow via Loch Lomond and Inveraray. If you want to avoid the “Rest and Be Thankful” mountain pass, you can take one of the regular car ferries (Western Ferries or CalMac) from Gourock to Dunoon. You can also island-hop across Arran by car ferry from Ardrossan to Brodick, from Lochranza to Claonaig and then down the Kintyre peninsula. The crossing from Tayinloan, aboard another CalMac ferry, takes some 20 minutes and the ferries run every hour with a two-hour break at lunchtime. Don’t be surprised by the zigzag line taken by the little vessel as Gigha sound is full of hidden rocks.


Five years ago, Gigha was the subject of what was the largest community buy-out in British history............"

more - http://www.ft.com/cms/s/0/6d6e7dcc-4eed ... 07658.html